November 1, 2020 - Aspen, Independence Pass

The drive on I-70 from Eagle to the turnoff for Aspen at Glenwood Springs was simply spectacular.  Alas, no pictures.

At Glenwood Springs, we turned southeast on Highway 82 and drove the 30 miles or so to Aspen.  Aspen is another ski resort city like Vail.

Founded as a mining camp during the Colorado Silver Boom and later named Aspen for the abundance of aspen trees in the area, the city boomed during the 1880s, its first decade. The boom ended when the Panic of 1893 led to a collapse of the silver market. For the next half-century, known as "the quiet years", the population steadily declined, reaching a nadir of fewer than 1000 by 1930. Aspen's fortunes recovered in the mid-20th century when neighboring Aspen Mountain was developed into a ski resort.  Industrialist Walter Paepcke bought many properties in the city in the 1950s and redeveloped them. Today it is home to three institutions, two of which Paepcke helped found, that have international importance: the Aspen Music Festival and School, the Aspen Institute, and the Aspen Center for Physics.

Aspen remains popular as a year-round destination for locals, second-home buyers and tourists. Outdoor recreation in the surrounding White River National Forest serves as a summertime counterpart to the city's four ski areas. Demand for real estate has made Aspen one of the most expensive places in the country to buy a home.

Here are a part of the Aspen Mountain Ski Resort -- founded in 1946 by the aforementioned Walter Paepcke -- which is right on the edge of town.

   
Flying by Aspen in my RV-7 back in October, 2017.  On the left:  the north face of Aspen Mountain which is the location of the Aspen Mountain Ski Resort, one of four adjacent ski areas operated collectively as Aspen/Snowmass.  Center right is the Snowmass Ski Resort.  Somewhere between the two are Buttermilk and Highland Ski Resorts.   Aspen County Airport is dead center.  The town of Aspen is to the left of the airport.  Notice the big mountains south of Aspen.
   

After Aspen, we continued on Highway 82 to see the Independence Ghost Town.  It was a little farther than we thought but we ended up very glad we made the drive

Independence is down in the valley there on the left, next to the Roaring Fork River.

   

 Two good-size, show-covered mountains overlook Independence.

   

Gold was discovered here on July 4, 1879.  A tent city sprang up named after the Independence Gold Lode.  By the summer of 1880 there were 300 people in camp.  One of the mines processed nearly $100,000 worth of gold the first year of operation.  By 1882, Independence had over 40 businesses.  But the boom was over as quickly as it had occurred.  The gold lode proved to be only shallow veins that were exhausted in a few years.  Over $190,000 was processed in 1881 and 1882 but not much after that.  By 1888, less than 100 people remained.  The end came in the winger of 1889 which saw the worst storm in Colorado's recorded history.  The supply route to Independence was cut off.  The remaining citizens used long wood planks as skiis to make it down to Aspen, never to return.

Notice the town elevation:  10,830 feet!

   
Hiking down to the ghost town.  Colorado has over 1,500 ghost towns. Currently only about 640 remain.
   
The remnants of one of the buildings: a boarding house.  At its peak, Independence had 90 buildings.  All that remain are a few buildings and depressions along what was once Aspen Avenue.
   
Independence back in the day.  Notice the bare mountain to the left.  The hillsides were stripped of trees to provide timber for the construction and heating of buildings.
   
Lynnette enjoying the beautiful country.
   
47 businesses served Independence during its boom including a bank, a printing press, three groceries, a general store, two drugstores, severak liquor and tobacco shops, a butcher shop, a barber shop and a bakery.  Plus hotels and boarding houses.  Supplies had to be hauled over the continental divide at great expense.
   
We were not that far from Independence Pass so we figured we might as well continue on and see that.
 
Climbing towards Independence Pass.
   
Looking back at Highway 82 and the way we had come.
   
We made it!  Independence Pass.  Elevation 12,095 feet.  I rarely fly my plane that high.  Highway 82 over Independence Pass is the highest paved road crossing of the Continental Divide in North America.  From here it is 21 miles west to Aspen and 17 miles east to Twin Lakes, south of Leadville.
   
I walked on a short, snow-covered, treacherous trail to this overlook.
   
Looking west.
   
Looking due south.
   

Looking east.  Highway 82 continues east to Twin Lakes at left.

Originally, travel over the pass was on foot paths worn by Native Americans, prospectors and pack animals.   The first records of travel over Independence Pass come from 1879 when prospectors found gold near the Independence Ghost Town.  Mining fueled the development of a toll road over the pass.  The original road over the Pass featured long stretches of "corduroy" where logs were laid down to counter the effects of  water, mud and soft soils.  When the ore played out the road fell into disrepair until the State of Colorado designated State Highway 82 over the pass in the 1920s and rebuilt the road on its current alignment.

 

   
Twining Peak -- 13,711 feet high -- to the north of Independence Pass.
   
Closeup looking west.
   
Closeup looking south.
   
I don't know where I'm looking.  Just thought it was a pretty shot.
   
A little creek runs alongside the trees.
   
We left Independence Pass and headed down Highway 82 back to Aspen.  Lynnette drove so I was able to take some pictures.
   
The road got fairly narrow in spots.
   
We drove through some stands of Aspens.
   
Those are some big Aspen trees.  AAA
   
I'd love to drive through here in September, when the Aspens are at their peak.  Hat tip to Doug Dolde for this beautiful picture on Wikipedia.
   
Driving back through the town of Aspen.
   
Departing Aspen, by the airport, where the snow-covered mountains have turned to red rock.
   
We backtracked Highway 82 up to Carbondale, then turned south on Highway 133.  Our destination was the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.  The atlas said this was a scenic drive and it certainly was.
 
Approaching huge twin-summit Mount Sopris, elevation 12,965 feet.
   
 
   
 
   
Looking west at Huntsman Ridge.
   
A nice view of the Elk Ridge Mountains looking northeast of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River.
   
 
   
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